Japan Day 3, Part 5: Honen-in and Goya's Okinawan Curry

Just outside of Honen-in stood grave stones for the remains of monks. 

Naturally, I needed to take a self-portrait there in keeping with Eurasian Hobo tradition.

The temple buildings were quite small, but pleasant. 

The highlight was the moss and fern covered thatch roof that looked as much a garden as a building cover.

The famous temples of Kyoto are largely where the valley meets the surrounding mountains. I cycled down of the forested mountains and into the city to enjoy lunch at Goya. Okinowan green papaya curry is apparently quite similar to Korean curry, but it is more subtle and has some kindred with Indian yellow curries as well. 

As someone who secretly ate spoonfuls of brown sugar as a child, I appreciated the invitation to the brown sugar candies on the table. 

The surrounding neighborhood had some amazing houses that were private residences despite looking museum-worthy.

Japan Day 3, Part 4: Ginkaku-ji

The temple of Ginkaku-ji began as a Shogun Yoshimasa's villa retreat. It's name means 'Silver Pavilion', though (unlike the golden pavilion) the centerpiece never received the metal plating to make the name accurate. The grounds do make for a peaceful experience, with sculpted gravel gardens between lush organic ones. 

I'm rather glad the 'Silver Pavilion' stayed wooden. I think it would have looked gaudy and ostentatious instead of serene and dignified.

The gardens were spectacular.

The rock gardens were less serene, since the gravel seemed to be ideal nesting ground for bees.

I enjoyed the numerous stone footbridges across the ponds and streams of the extensive gardens.

A path with bamboo steps looped around the woods overlooking the pavilion.

The overlook was the only place in the grounds where one could get a sense of how close they were to the rest of the city. Everywhere else felt miles away.

Thick and well-maintained hedges guided us out of the retreat and back into the city.

Japan Day 3, Part 3: Shimogama-jinja

I cycled back along the river to the top of the Y intersection where it met a second river, which was an idyllic spot for a temple. There is a wooded park filled with enough trees that it might have been difficult to find Shimoga-jinja if it weren't so orange. 

A series of increasingly impressive gates welcomed visitors to the 1200 year old Unesco Heritage site. 

The grounds were suitably lush for a shrine dedicated to the god of the harvest. 

I don't know the nature of the ritual I saw, but it certainly looked fitting to the setting.

The main gate was just as impressive leaving as entering. 

Japan Day 3, Part 2: Daitoku-ji Temple Complex and Gated Community

On the bike ride between sights I noticed several circling eagles.

Daitoku-ji is a walled community, but large sections of it are open to the public. It was hard to believe that the peaceful wooden houses that looked like an outdoor museum were in fact private houses. 

There were numerous temples and zen gardens scattered throughout the maze of streets. 

I particularly liked Daisen Garden. It was small but beautiful. I appreciated the zen aspect outlined in a guide pamphlet, and loved the windows between sections of the bonsai and rock configurations. It was truly peaceful. Also, there were tiny lizards. 

The legendary swordsman Musashi was supposed to have trained in Daitoku-ji for a while, and I can see the appeal. While in Korea I read a historical fiction account of Musashi's life, and I enjoyed walking in the footsteps of a swordmaster who was determined to learn everything about swordsmanship by studying everyone. If I recall correctly, he went to Daitoku-ji to study with a flower arranger because he had so admired the perfect cut of the stems of the flowers. 

Japan Day 3, Part 1: Jingo-ji Temple with Bike Ride and Outdoor Sculpture Exhibit

I was up before six so that I could bike to the far North end of Kyoto before the temples all opened. I planned to start with the farthest away sections and work my way back towards my hostel for as long as the sites were open. I had a thoroughly pleasant bicycle ride up the river, during which I saw numerous cranes and herons, and even had to go out of my way to avoid a turtle. 

After forty minutes of cycling, I stopped to eat the lunch box breakfast I had purchased from a Circle K convenience store before leaving. I was surprised at how good it was, even after having been told by my Korean coworkers that Japanese convenience stores were some of their favorite meals in Japan. 

A short ride further upriver and I arrived at Jingo-ji. Outside the gates was a whimsical collection of sculptures, from a twenty-sided kaleidoscope... 

... to a paper dragon or phoenix that looked a lot like the Rebel Alliance's symbol. 

I arrived well before the buildings opened, but I was able to walk around the grounds. A path along and over a small stream lead to the initial structures.

The entrance to the main hall was one of the most aesthetically pleasing views I had in Japan. The gardens, architecture, and colors all worked well together. 

The only other tourists there were happy to take my picture.

I found the way the moss grew on the wooden shingles of a small shrine quite beautiful.

Other buildings also had moss and fern cultivation, along with that old wood exterior that I love. 

Across the street was a building that housed some interesting armor and found wood sculpture.

I retrieved my bike and took off for the an ancient walled community.